Ben Birkl from Alpha Industries

Hi Ben. What makes the bomber jacket so special?

The bomber jacket as we know and love it is our “MA-1.” It’s been around for over 50 years. Back then, it was designed for the US forces, and has a couple of super-cool properties that not everyone knows about: most people think that the “pencil pockets” on the sleeve are for cartridges, but they’re actually covers which ensure that pens don’t leak when exposed to extreme g-forces in jets. In addition, the jacket has an orange lining. It was orange so that crashed pilots could be rescued more easily, for instance from the jungle or from the water.

From today’s perspective, this is a classic reappropriation, from a purely functional military jacket to a fashion item. How does Alpha Industries respond if inappropriate groups such as neo-Nazis wear the MA-1?

We expressly distance ourselves from this, and want nothing to do with these groups.

How would you say the jacket is positioned these days?

It’s everywhere—right across the population. From the 14-year-old German rap-music fan to the ‘60s hippy to the 80-year-old veteran pilot: our jackets are worn by everyone.

How do you explain the success of the bomber jacket in Frankfurt?

The bomber jacket has always been part of Frankfurt, worn by street gangs, rockers, hardcore football fans, bouncers at various clubs and bars, and even bankers out relaxing on a Saturday. The bomber jacket is as individual as the city itself.

The bomber jacket has always been used as a symbol for movements, for instance as a hip-hop crew jacket or a political statement. How has it shaped youth and gang culture here?

In Frankfurt, the bomber jacket was widely worn by youth gangs in the late ’80s and early ’90s. As the German saying goes, jackets can both attract and repel. Take the burgundy-coloured jacket, for instance: a stitched-on Turkish crescent identified its wearers as members of the “Turkish Power Boys.” The tiger on the petrol-blue MA-1 was the hallmark of “Le Mur,” and the “Korea Boys” wore a South Korean flag on their sage jackets. Essentially, the jacket is now inextricably linked with Frankfurt and emblematic of the city.

In Frankfurt in particular, Alpha has launched bomber jackets in tandem with lots of local partners. Which collaborations matter most to you?

I’ve had the opportunity to do lots of cool things here in Frankfurt. I'm incredibly grateful for that. It wouldn't be fair to single one out, as they were all different, and each one was fantastic.

OK, we’ll do it for you: Alpha Industries has collaborated and created very different jackets in Frankfurt with the likes of the Robert Johnson Club and the artist Anne Imhof, the rappers Moses Pelham and Azad, the streetwear labels BHFSVRTL and EVROPA, and the AAAREA co-founders Nordisk, NONOT Studios and IMA Clique. How do collaborations like these come about?

Usually through personal contacts.

In the typical Frankfurt way, then – informal. What is the future of the bomber jacket in the fashion industry?

Over the years, the jacket has evolved into an “it piece,” and is constantly reinterpreted both by designers and by the people who wear it. That’s why I believe the MA-1 will continue to be essential to any relevant collection!

Thanks for talking to us, Ben! In summary, the bomber jacket never gets old, as its function is constantly being reinvented in line with the times. For some, the bomber jacket adds an edge to their style that no other garment can provide—a kind of instant street cred. For others, it provides a sense of belonging, or even unity, helping them to feel part of a movement. Whatever it means to people, it makes them feel secure.