Bird of paradise, eccentric, Willy Wonka – the media usually focuses on your appearance and your clothes when describing you. What do you think of that?
It’s quite intentional. The fact that the media paint me that way really just shows that they don’t have a clue about fashion.
When did your interest in fashion begin?
Fashion and music have been constant companions for me. I experienced how Queen changed fashion. Or Marc Bolan from T-Rex. I grew up in the heyday of glam rock – and glam rock was a combination of music and clothing. One of the most elegant men for me to this day is Brian Ferry from Roxy Music. If I were a woman, I would dress like Cher – but then I would need to have a good figure (laughs).
Why is it important for you to express yourself through your clothes?
For me, fashion is a symbol of my sophistication. I grew up without parents and educated myself through three things: film, music and books. From this magical triangle, the fourth thing emerged: fashion. Artists have always shown their individuality and expression through style. That’s how I do it, too.
Ardi Goldman
Is there a film that particularly influenced you?
“Wild at Heart” is a very special movie for me. In my favourite scene, Nicolas Cage gets chatted up in a bar because of his snakeskin jacket. He replies, “For me, it’s a symbol of my individuality.” That’s one of the most important lines for me. And the best thing is, I finally found a snake-look faux leather suit! Drykorn had actually produced it as a sample piece, so there were only three or four copies. I discovered the suit at the Fashion Week in the summer and was quite sad that I couldn’t buy it. So Drykorn made a copy especially for me.
Back in the CargoCity South trial, you were criticised in court because of your clothing style. How did you feel about that at the time?
I deliberately wore those clothes because I don’t allow myself to be pigeon-holed. I don’t need to dress up. I go in there as Ardi Goldman and come out as Ardi Goldman. It just took a little longer to get out (laughs). One thing was clear: I’d either be convicted or acquitted – like a young musketeer. A good friend always calls me “d’Ardignan”, the rough-edged guy from Gascony (laughs). And that fits pretty well; d’Artagnan came to town and challenged everyone right away.
Did you dress like you normally do in prison?
Of course! That's why my fellow inmates gave me the nickname “Hollywood” (laughs). Of course, you’re supposed to dress as inconspicuously as possible. That’s why the prison authorities often tried to clear out my cell and take away my clothes.
How would you describe your style?
I don’t like trying to categorise fashion. I’m a fashionist – I wear everything. If you look at photographs and movies from the ‘60s, every man wore a scarf, a coat, a hat and gloves. He was dressed. Fashion to me also means being dressed.
Where do you buy your clothes?
I’m a globetrotter. Everything I buy has to be discovered. I find a lot abroad, especially in Florence, and every now and then something in Germany. I don't mean to say that Germany is unsophisticated, but when you wear fashion, it shouldn't look like a costume. When Italians wear colour, they never look like they're wearing a costume. They really know how to combine items – that’s the art of fashion.
When you do go shopping in Frankfurt, where do you go?
For me, there are two stores in Frankfurt that are particularly good quality: Listener and Frida. I also like to shop in the women’s department at Pfüller, at Bailly Diehl and Kathrin Kion. For me, fashion is first and foremost about cuts, fabrics, colours and whether it suits me. Besides that, I don't care if it's a garment for women or for men. It has to be individual.
Are there certain labels that you like?
In the past, everything I wore was available at L.O.C.K. – an area at Bread & Butter. There were only things there that already had longevity because of how they were made: horsehide jackets, in 12 and 14 ounce denim, double stitched, selvedge ... It’s still the same today. I love materials and I’m always looking for great qualities in materials science, in the cutting and in the execution.
Union Halle is slated to host the Greenstyle Fair from 21 to 23 January. Is sustainable fashion close to your heart?
To be honest, I don’t think sustainable fashion will help save the world. To really make a difference, fashion would have to redefine itself completely – not through consumption, but through quality. Or to put it another way, it’s not about producing sustainably, but about getting fashion back on its feet in terms of quality and thus regulating consumption. Currently, 1.8 billion garments are produced every year. That is absurd!
Your new “Fortuna Irgendwo” club will hopefully finally open in 2022. How should one dress in order to get in?
That’s pretty simple: look at how I’ve been dressing for the last 20 years and just imitate me (laughs).
And last but not least: what do you hope for Frankfurt from Fashion Week?
I hope that we will attract even more people who are interested in fashion. Maybe even bankers and lawyers who feel the urge to put away their standard grey suits and start wearing fashion with a smile. Because above all, fashion should be fun.
Thank you for the interview!
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